People will tell you that the desert is alive--the biological life of the "crust", the reptiles birds insects, the essential scrub and cacti. That's true, and I appreciate the biodiversity, but Death Valley didn't get its name from being abundant with life. It's a...
America is gorgeous. GORGEOUS. I already knew that, but I'm refining my understanding. America's Southwest is nothing like the lush forests, soft beaches, and blossoming springtimes of the South and East, nor the silky golden grasses and misty redwoods of Northern...
Buying a car may be the best idea I've had in recent history. Not just because I haven't owned a car in 15 years (since I left to join the Peace Corps). Not just for all the things it will allow me to do (from trail running to easily getting home after a party). Three...
More than 1000 guides nominated worldwide. Only 1 winner. Me? Me. #1 in the Wanderlust World Guide Awards!! Many thanks to Mark and the team at Mountain Madness in Seattle; to Kili, Sagar, Dawa and the team in Nepal; and to my clients who, in addition to saying...
Wow. WOW!!! I am thrilled to tell you that I am going to London as one of the top 3 finalists for the Wanderlust World Guide Award!!! I am honored and humbled by the outpouring of support from so many of my clients, who wrote testimonials about why they thought...
Returning home feels better than ever! (Except that maybe it always feels this good.) It's a joy and a relief--a smooth season with no emergencies and a return to the sweet sanctuary of home. I buy blueberries and strawberries, cook quinoa and kale, reunite...
A funky cool mosaic in San Francisco airport, the familiar bowl of ramen in Hong Kong, the expansive arcs of Thailand's airport, and the disorder of Kathmandu passport control. After 27+ hours in transit, I sleep in a real bed for 15 hours, go out for an early morning...
In case you haven't been following Asian politics, Burma's military dictatorship has been relaxing its control over the last year. The government freed Nobel Laureate and political opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi from over 15 years of house arrest, and it...
According to the decals on the taxi window: No smoking No durian (a fruit smellier than the worst/best French cheese) No drinking No dogs No sex No guns and…no small sheep??
The heat stands like a wall outside the airport, thick and unrelenting, long after the sun has gone down. After the winter cold of Kathmandu--40 degrees and no heat anywhere--I gladly sweat and melt and spend a few tropical days wearing a tank top and getting...
My friend Sam, who owns Pranamaya Yoga in Kathmandu, was heading up for an afternoon at Pharping Monastery atop the southern mountains ringing the Kathmandu Valley. When she invited me join her, I thought, "Absolutely." When she said, "Bring some yoga clothes to pose...
It's been years since I've run in Kathmandu. The pollution became oppressive, and I'm usually resting up before and after treks. This trip, however, I felt inspired to bring my shoes… The best time to run in Kathmandu is around 6am, give or take an hour. Early morning...