The Mountain Madness Everest Base Camp Trek is well on its way (with me as the guide for a group of 15)!
After climbing to the top of the Monkey Temple for views of the city, watching the funeral rituals at Pashupatinath, sitting beneath the eyes of the Buddha at peaceful Bouddhanath Stupa, and meandering through monasteries, we packed up and headed for the hills! A few days in chaotic Kathmandu, fascinating though it is, makes me long for the fresh breeze and quiet jangling of yak bells that we find on the trail.
Our flight into Lukla is always like an amusement park ride, but even more so this trip! The weather was extremely clear and we had sweeping views of the Himalayas before sliding into the airstrip. These Nepali pilots are accustomed to flying several flights a day into Lukla, and they navigate the looming mountains with a professional familiarity that can be unsettling to the uninitiated. We sped in for a fast landing, the uphill runway then rapidly slowing us down. Whipping into a sharp right turn, we were parked for a quick turn around of passengers and cargo. Super fun, and also adrenaline inducing! Stepping out onto the tarmac in the cool wind of morning, everyone was elated with the views, the village, and the start of our adventure!
In Nepal, however, everything starts with tea. So we made our way over to a sunny courtyard and sat down to enjoy tea, while our sherpas and portering team assembled our bags into even loads. After introductions, we all set off for a few hours of hiking along the Dudh Kosi, or Milk River, and a night in Phakding with the constant call of the river drowning out any noise of village.
The following day we began to see waterfalls and snowy peaks, even as we hiked through forest and small villages. Crossing the Hillary suspension bridge high above the river, we made a steep climb for the rest of the afternoon until we arrived in Namche Bazaar. An old trading town, it’s now filled with lodges, shops, and bakeries. Our whole group hiked strongly and is looking good!
The group continues to be amazed by the magical and mystical scenery, constantly surprised that every turn is a more beautiful panorama than the last. This morning’s acclimatization hike brought us to the famous Everest View Hotel. Aptly named, we could see a long way up the valley that we will trek through and staring us in the face were Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Taboche. Stunning!
From rhododendron forest to high alpine valleys, our days take us through local villages, past Buddhists deities painted on cliffs, past yak caravans loaded with supplies, and around large piles of stones carved with prayers. We arrived in Tengboche just in time to visit the monastery for the afternoon ceremony–monks chanting Tibetan scriptures and drinking steaming bowls of tea. Afterwards, we stayed to have some prayer flags blessed and ended up talking with the monks. They were setting up for a big ceremony the next day and needed to move some heavy furniture. Handing back the prayer flags (and after chatting a bit in Nepali), the monk took a look at Brian and Geoff and figured they were pretty strong–he asked if we’d lend a hand with the rearrangement. Brian and Geoff were happy to help and were laden with a handpainted wooden throne (heavy indeed!), plus a few tables, for ceremony setup. Two weeks ago they never expected to be moving furniture with Buddhist monks, but here they were and fully enjoying it! You just never know what you’re in for in Nepal.
From Tengboche to Dingboche took us above the tree line to high alpine valley. A few people opted in for the harder of two acclimatization hikes out of Dingboche this morning. It was well worth it. At the top of a steep, steep climb, we were rewarded with an exquisite turquoise blue lake gracing the foot of a massive glacier on the back side of Ama Dablam. The rest of the group curved up the valley towards Island Peak, with fantastic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, and a range of fluted, serrated mountains. Acclimatization complete, we’re reveling in the last showers and internet for a while. Tomorrow we climb an alpine valley for one of my favorite days of the trek: sweeping views of the mountains, stone memorials perched high on a ridge top, and the dizzying arc of Taboche peak looming over us.
We’ve also been getting to know each other and our Nepali staff, from the 6-time Everest Summiter to the Everest Marathon runner, from the Sherpa studying to be a Buddhist monk to the local village boy saving money for his family. We have a great group—Americans, Brazilians, an Australian, and our Nepali staff—and we’re climbing higher tomorrow!