Two kinds of doctors exist at EBC…
Luann Freer, founder of Himalayan Rescue Association, tells us about being a doctor at EBC.
Luann Freer founded the Himalayan Rescue Association in 2003 when she realized that expeditions were sending sick and injured sherpas down hours of hiking for treatment because the expeditions didn’t want to “waste” medical supplies treating them at base camp. The HRA now charges foreign climbers reasonable rates for treatment and uses that money to subsidize nearly free treatment for Nepali staff. The HRA medical tent treats everything: the ubiquitous Khumbu cough, broken legs, altitude complications, and even highly unusual cases like last year’s methanol poisoning (tainted knock-off whiskey).
Icefall Doctor Ang Kami Sherpa, has over 15 years experience setting safe routes through the notorious Khumbu Icefall.
The Icefall Doctors are a different kind of specialist. With decades of experience on the Khumbu Icefall, these 6 veteran climbers set the ladders and ropes which all expeditions will use to cross the precarious Icefall. While they have no official training, these Doctors are nonetheless the most respected experts in this arena. They can predict Icefall morphology and assess the safest routes.
Every year the Doctors set the route for the season using aluminum ladders across crevasses, static fixed ropes, ice screws, snow pickets, and wands to mark the way. This year they report that the Icefall is in much better condition than last year, meaning more stable seracs, fewer large crevasses, and fewer ladders. All expeditions pay a fee to cover the cost of the Doctors.
Some of the Icefall Doctors are also the quickest climbers around. While most foreign climbers will require 8 or more hours to go from Base Camp to Camp 2 (21,300 ft), the Icefall Doctors can make it in an astounding 3 hours once the route is set. Pemba respects the impressive skill and strength of these well-known climbers.