The Pause of Morning

Apr 24, 2012 | Nepal

Morning in Nepal is peaceful, sort of. There’s the tolling of bells, the barking of dogs, the whirring of water pumps, the clanking of construction, the beeps of motorcycles, the  chatter of children, the droning of prayers, the hollering of mothers, the thunking of gates.

Still, I have nowhere to be and nothing to do until business opens, so I sit and read and drink tea and eat potatoes with thick pita. What this restaurant lacks in comfort and nutrition (hard benches, brick floors, no flowers, no fruit, no yogurt), it entirely makes up for in local flavor. I am surrounded by a bunch of old Sherpas and Tibetans after their morning prayers, and the space is filled with gossip and gab.

At the magic hour of 9am, the day again goes into full force. Meetings with tour operators, planning and costing and preparing. Dinner reservations for groups this season, trail questions for a new trip this fall, negotiations on cost and staff. Ready to trek?