Patan palace square with temples from the 16th-18th century. Newari people are the centuries-old artists of the Kathmandu Valley, and our tour in Kathmandu takes an inside look at the old kingdom of Patan and some of its world-famous artisans. The pagoda temples of...
Kathmandu
No Drought Here
Rain pours from the sky all night, and I wake up in Nepal. Trek logistics, meeting staff, drinking tea--a day is consumed and the rains drum all night again. Jewelry purchasing, nonprofit meetings, catching up with friends, and the relentless monsoon continues. After...
Marrying A Fruit
While in Kathmandu between trips, I happened upon a ubiquitous and yet unusual Newari ritual: marriage of young girls to a bael fruit. Yes, full marriage regalia--clothes, jewelry, ceremony--to wed a fruit. But it all makes sense... Hindus have a traditional practice...
Streets of Kathmandu
The streets of Kathmandu are entirely empty at 11pm when I arrive, and you might think it a peaceful town. In the morning, the mayhem returns--horns beeping and blaring, bells ringing, motorcycles revving, pressure cookers hissing, hawkers calling out, children...
Back In Kathmandu
Back in Kathmandu, the once medieval city now offers us every amenity: soft beds, hot showers, pizza & salads, shopping, drinking… We roam and relax and enjoy some wine and a delicious meal before everyone flies home! Over 17 days in Nepal, it feels...
Beginning Again
This life I lead, its cyclical nature of comings and goings...it can be hard on relationships and friendships, on my body, on my time, on my work, on my practices. It pulls me out of my routines of running, yoga, meditation. It pulls me away from clients,...
Yoga Model for Day
My friend Sam, who owns Pranamaya Yoga in Kathmandu, was heading up for an afternoon at Pharping Monastery atop the southern mountains ringing the Kathmandu Valley. When she invited me join her, I thought, "Absolutely." When she said, "Bring some yoga clothes to pose...
Chod
A big tent set up next to the stupa one morning holds more than 150 people with drums and bells performing a Chod practice. Chod is used to cut through our identification with our ego. These are not monks, but everyday Buddhists, practicing Chod for a day as part of...
Sand Mandala
In Tibetan Buddhism, geometric representations of the universe called mandalas are made from colored sand for special ceremonies. Piped down small tubes, millions of grains of sand are layered to form ornate designs and even drawings of small figures. The process...
Taxi Drivers for Obama
Every time I get into a taxi this week, the driver chats me up for a moment and then asks, "America is having its election? Who are you for?" Taxi drivers in every country I've ever been to seem to be the nexus of political discussion. When I answer Obama, each and...
Running Kathmandu
It's been years since I've run in Kathmandu. The pollution became oppressive, and I'm usually resting up before and after treks. This trip, however, I felt inspired to bring my shoes… The best time to run in Kathmandu is around 6am, give or take an hour. Early morning...
Young Monks in the Morning
After 6am prayers are finished, I find young monks gathered in the back courtyard of a monastery, talking, playing chess, and practicing their horn skills for a big ritual tomorrow. Check out this video of the young monks learning to play the dungchen--a ceremonial...